Guitar Doctor - Whitman, Massachusetts U.S.A.

Guitar Doctor
Sales - Expert Repairs - Custom Modifications - Design & Building
 

 

 

Doc answers real-life questions about guitars
Here are some questions that have come up many times over the years. 

We can't include everything that can go wrong with an instrument or all of the possible fixes, but this should give all players some insight.

Doc answers your guitar related questions
Doc answers your questions

Topics include tuning, Floyd Rose string change, used guitars, lessons and other frequently asked questions.
More guitar repair and maintenance issues are discussed in  Repairs and Restoration and More Real Life Questions.
See below for some real questions and honest answers.

Basic Legal Disclaimer
GUITAR DOCTOR assumes no responsibility for any advice taken 
from this website or from telephone or email discussions. 
This information is NOT intended as a guide 
for "Home Repairs" or "Do-It-Yourself".

   

Your Question 

The Doctor’s Advice

What are Guitar Doctor's store hours and how can I get there?
Monday: Appointments only
Wednesday, Thursday, Friday: 10am - 6pm EST
Tuesday and Saturday: 10am - 4pm EST
Sunday: Closed
Email 
Telephone: (781) 447-4520

 

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My guitar won't stay in tune.
I tune each string perfectly with my electronic tuner, but as soon as I start to play, they're all out of tune again.
We really can't be specific without seeing the guitar, but... depending on the guitar that you have it could be caused by any number of problems, but it sounds like it all would indicate that your guitar is in need of a good "set up". That's when a qualified guitar tech would go over your entire guitar and check / adjust / repair / calibrate each component. Guitars, like cars or any mechanical thing, can get out of whack now and then. If you have a tremolo guitar this is especially true. Perhaps it may need some repairs to the machine heads, nut, neck or bridge, too. Humidity also effects guitars. You should be able to find a qualified shop by checking your local Yellow Pages, or even by asking friends. I know that it would be well worth your money. Like I always say, "trying to play an ailing guitar is like trying to drive a car without a steering wheel." It's pretty frustrating!
To get a better idea of what's entailed you might want to check out http://www.guitarsite.com/newsletters/991101/4.shtml?nl64.
This is an excellent reference. You can decide if you can handle it or if you need a pro from there.
Keeping a guitar in tune should be easy so long as three factors are working for you.
1: That the nut is cut properly with no "pinching" of the strings.
2: The intonation is set reasonably close or the guitar won't get in tune to start with.
3: The strings should be wound on properly with only about 3 wraps around each post, with the windings concentric - not overlapping, and well stretched in so they aren't stretching while you're playing it.
The last item is probably the most important for staying in tune. String pinch in the nut can be checked simply by detuning the string a bit and lifting each string out of the nut. If it "pops" out, that's no good. It should have free play in the nut slot. Intonation is very important and generally needs to be set by an experienced person. This is true for all guitars.
It is also important to have good quality tuning machines. The better tuners have the adjustment screw in the top of the key and a sealed permanently lubricated cast housing.
That's about the best I can tell you at the moment. If you feel your axe would do well to overhauled by an experienced tech, let me know. It doesn't cost much to ship it back and forth and the work you need is inexpensive unless you need an upgrade with the tuners.
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What is the proper procedure for installing strings using a Floyd Rose locking tremolo system?
Well! I could go on for a while on the ins and outs of a Floyd, but I'll see if I can make it as simple as possible.
First you'll need a 3mm hex key to unlock and lock the strings.
IF the neck adjustment and action is set well, or where you want it it, we proceed.
1: Remove the back cover on the guitar exposing the springs and unlock the strings from the locknut at the headstock.
2: Find something to prop under the tail of the trem on the face of the guitar that will hold it up so that the baseplate of the trem is PARALLEL to the surface of the guitar. If the trem is lifted away from the surface, then tighten the spring claw in the back of the guitar until the trem pulls down nice and snug on your prop. TAPE THE PROP TO THE FACE OF THE GUITAR.
3: At this point, you may need to adjust the height of the trem at the pivot studs for proper string action, and adjust the prop to maintain the plate parallel to the body.
4: With the old strings still on, set the fine tuners to the middle of their adjustment range and retune the guitar using the tuning keys. If the fine tuners push on the prop, you may need to adjust the thickness of the prop again to keep the bridge parallel.
5: Now! Change each string one at a time and stretch and retune it several times until it doesn't go flat anymore when you tug on it. As you stretch each string in, have your whammy bar in place and dump (dive) the bar. Let it up and check the tuning on the string. After each string is stretched in, you want it to be in tune AFTER THE BAR IS DUMPED AND RELEASED. Then go on to the next string.
6: When all the strings are loaded and stretched, dump the bar and check the tuning overall. All the strings should be in tune after you dive the bar and let it up.
7: Now lock the strings in at the locknut. Check the tuning - still with the prop in place. You may need to unlock and retune a string or two, but get them as close as possible without touching the fine tuners.
8: Remove the tape from the prop and loosen the spring claw in the back of the guitar - adjusting each screw equally to maintain good "square" positioning of the claw. Back off the claw screws equally until the prop falls out from under the bridge.
9: Now zero in the tuning using the claw adjustment. When really close, you should be able to make any minor adjustments with the fine tuners at this point and you're done.
Sounds like fun, eh? Hehehehe - you'll get it. Once you've gone through all this trouble you will be able to change the strings one at a time without using the prop. If you need to take all the strings off the guitar - for cleaning or whatever, using the prop will speed up the tuning process greatly.
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Can you replace the frets on guitar necks. 
If so, what does it cost
In a nutshell refrets run about like this:
Unbound rosewood or ebony - $175 - $200;
Bound rosewood or ebony - $225 - $250;
Maple - $250 - $300.
Your choice of fret size is included. This work is a specialty of the house. We maintain a very high degree of precision with this particular job, as the fretwork determines the ultimate playability of the instrument.
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I have a vintage guitar with a cracked neck. I have not been able to find an original replacement for it anywhere. Can it be repaired? Is it worth it?What would a repair cost?
Yes, it is definitely worth fixing, as an original replacement neck would be very difficult to impossible to find. The cost of repair would be somewhere between $100-$200, but I can't be more specific without seeing it. I can make a copy of the neck from scratch, but that would be more expensive than repair, and of course, I'd still need to have the guitar and neck to do it. My motto: "If it's wood, it can be fixed."
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What's a graphite neck? What are the advantages? How much is it? How about graphite nuts?
Graphite necks run about $500 and up. There are several ways of making them involving resin and heat molding of fibers of pieces as well as cutting them from pre-cast billets. I've never seen it done or conversed much with designers familiar with the process, but the number one criteria for using one must indeed be the acceptance of man-made materials. Purists will forever pooh-pooh "synthetic" guitars. HOWEVER! A graphite neck is very stable and resistant to the effects of humidity and yields a certain degree of "predictable performance". I've found that most graphite necks have a certain "stringy & uncolored" sound. Different neck woods definitely have an effect on tone that allows the builder some manipulation of the resulting tone. With graphite, string response seems to be "uninhibited" and the harmonic content of the notes is typically more complex. Manipulating that fine balance between resonance and sustain, in terms of neck shape and thickness, is perhaps more predictable using a material like graphite. Nuances of fingering technique and pick attack are definitely more prominent as well with graphite necks.
Graphite nuts are another matter. The only real reason to use one is to facilitate tuning stability - especially using a whammy bar - and to reduce string breakage. Careful installation of a graphite nut can run $40 - $50.

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What are my choices for bass tuning keys (2X2)?
There are several good choices for bass tuning keys. If you like the big keys with the open gears like on a Fender bass, they are available in 2 x 2 as well as the usual 4-in-line. I would recommend the Schaller heads for that style. The other option is enclosed heads - usually called "mini's". These are available from Schaller as well and are fairly expensive. You can get a comparable key from Gotoh for half the money. Those are high quality Japanese heads. (The Schaller are German.) I think Gotoh makes the big open-geared type as well, but I'd go with the Schaller on that style. They run typically $80 or so.
What color hardware are you going with? Let me know and I'll get you the price on your choice. I'd be happy to supply them to you as well, at a good price. On that line of thought, if you would like, let me know all the parts you will need and I'll give you a great deal on everything you might need - even blank wood if you're building from scratch
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I have broken the neck tension rod cover of my guitar. Can you help me with one, or find one?
The best thing to do is to contact the customer service department of the manufacturer and request a replacement for the model you have. A custom cover can certainly be made at a higher cost if need be.

 

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Do you have a catalogue? What guitars and gear do you have for sale?
No, we do not have a catalogue at this time. All of our larger inventory (guitars, amps, etc) can be seen through our homepage at http://www.guitardoctor.com. We try to keep it updated daily. The stuff is all at our store, too, at 659 Bedford St., Whitman, MA. There are just too many small items to list and keep current on the website, but if you email us at GDOC1@aol.com or call us at 781-447-4520 we can get what you need.

 

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Do you give guitar lessons at your store?
If you'd like to have guitar lessons please give us a call to see what time slots are available. (781-447-4520). Lessons cost $18.00 for a private 1/2 hour session. Lessons are usually weekly: same day, same time, same teacher. 
See our Lessons page for more details.
You'll need to have a guitar, also. If you do not have one, we can help you select something in your price and style range.

 

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What is the best age to learn to play guitar?
A parent should start a child on any instrument as soon as any propensity or desire is apparent or expressed. Some people are naturals, but typically the younger you start, the better you’ll be. It is not unusual for a child to lose interest in time, but they usually come back to it when they are ready if it's really for them. The same goes for adults. We have had beginner students well into their 70's who learned to play, just as they had always dreamed. So, the basic answer to your question is: any age is a good age, as long as the desire is there.
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Is this inexpensive old guitar worth fixing? The neck is definitely broken.
Is it worth it? Well, perhaps. Sentimental value goes a long way and I have fixed many guitars on that basis alone.
Mechanically speaking, if your *.* brand copy is a solid body (many are plywood with a hollow area under the face), then it may well be worth it. I might be able to repair the original neck and improve it while I'm at it. Otherwise, a new neck would run somewhere around $200 all said and done, mounted and strung.
My first decent guitar was a Les Paul copy. It was a flat-faced (no arch to the front) Aria. I put a couple hundred bucks into it (Gibson pickups and Grover heads) and played it for many years. It may only be worth it to you, and only you can decide.
If you'd like to send me the neck for examination, I'll be happy to look at it and let you know what I think. If you decide not to do anything at that point, I'll return the neck to you at my cost. If you decide to go ahead with the project, then send the body on to me and we'll get it going. Sound good? Let me know!

 

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How can I place an order or buy an item from you? What are your payment policies and options?
Please see our How to Order & Policies pages.
Do you have any other repair or custom work advice?
Please see our Repairs & Restoration and 
Custom Shop pages. You can also visit our shop at 659 Bedford St., Whitman, MA USA, phone us at 781-447-4520, or email your questions to GDOC1@aol.com.

 

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What's this about Traditional Archery Supply?
Traditional Archery Supply was originally conceived of my passion for this ancient and noble sport as a hopefully "break-even" venture 
in support of my own habit. We have dozens of Longbows & Recurves that can been seen at www.oldbow.com and in my shop...
Those of you who also love to PICK and PLUCK ~~ you know who you are! 

 

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Guitar Doctor
659 Bedford St.
Whitman, MA - 02382  - U.S.A.
(781)447-4520 - GDOC1@aol.com